location : Kpg. Pungo, Sematan
date : 16.08.09
distance : 53~55km
there were 27 cyclists who joined the expedition.
# You want to do some downhill # You’re keen to do shuttle runs # You like to ride fast and on the edge # You’re prepared to spend time working on your bike # You don’t want to ride uphill.
The Ins And Outs Of A Downhill Bike
FRAME : Bulit for stability at speed and in rough, steep terrain a downhill bike has super slack geometry. A low bottom bracket height keeps the centre of gravity down for better cornering performanance.
FORK : Downhill bikes run dual crown forks with between 180-203mm travel. Dual crown forks offer superior stiffness to a single crown fork and the larger damper and spring/air chamber delivers smoother performance. All downhill forks are equipped with 20mm axles.
REAR SUSPENSION : Most downhill bikes will deliver between 200-240mm of rear suspension travel. These bikes use coil shocks, rather than air shocks, as they deliver a more supple ride and can better cope with the build generated by a long downhill run.
WHEEL : Downhill wheels need to offer a good balance of strength and weight. Heavy wheel will cope with the punishment but may hinder acceleration and braking performance. Dual ply tyres between 2.35-2.7 inches are standard. Tubeless systems are gaining popularity amongst race set.
DRIVETRAIN : A single chain ring, usually 36-40 teeth,equipped with a chain guide is matched to a close ration cassette. Cranks tend to be shorter then on other bikes, around 165-170mm long, to give more ground clearance.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS DOWNHILL BIKE
The idea of downhill bikes as lumbering monster-trucks is long gone, and in their place has risen a new generation of light weight and trimmed down race machines. Titanium springs and pivot hardware, minimalist chainguides and even air shocks are all part of the gram shredding regimes.
LARGER DIAMETER FORKS
Manufacturers have continued to increase the strength and stiffness of downhill forks. The average forks diameter is now around 38mm, even the Rockshox Boxxer, which had retained 32mm legs for a decade, has now been beefed up.
Tubeless system are attracting more followers in the downhill race scene. As the effectiveness of tubeless systems has improved more downhill riders have come to appreciate the extra grip and reduced rolling resistance tubeless offers.
MORE SOPHISTICATED SUSPENSION
Motocross inspired suspension damping has started to lift control to new levels. In addition to the four largest suspension manufacturers ( Rockshox, Marzocchi, Fox and Manitou ), there are now a handful of smaller, cushion and boutique suspension companies showing the way in terms of performance.
Timing systems are by no means necessary, but they’re a lot of fun and a great training tool. Keep track of your progress and race your mates.
Keep the junk out of your eyes so you can stay off the brakes! Look for googles that have good vision and very importantly, are well vented so they don’t fog up.
A SHUTTLE VEHICLE
Downhill bikes really don’t ride back up very well, and unless you’ve got a chairlift, you will need a lift back up. Utes and vans make the perfect vehicle to get you and your steed back up to the top of a trail. A must-have for a serious downhiller.
Suspension : It is vital to know the ins and outs of your downhill bike’s suspension. You need to run between 30-45% sag for most downhill bikes (consult your dealer) and a rebound speed that offers a stable, ground-hugging ride (not to fast!). Once you have established a ballpark setting you can make fine adjustments to the other aspects of the suspension’s performance. Always keep record of any tweaks you make and note the effect they have.
Line Choice : The fastest way down a downhill track is usually not the most obvious. Before you ride down a new track, take some time to scout the smoothest lines on foot. There will usually be multiple lines through every section and sometimes you will have to weigh up all the options: do I take the slower inside line through the corner to have a straight run at the next? Or do I try and hold an even speed through both? A downhill race isn’t won a single corner, it’s won by scraping off fractions of a second in dozens of little places.------------------------------------------------------
# You like technical riding # You enjoy challenging yourself with big lines # You want a bomb proof bike for hardcore freeriding # You’d like to try some downhill racing for fun # ou’re keen to do some shuttle runs.
The Ins And Outs Of A Big Hit Freeride Bike
FRAME : Big Hit Freeride bikes are built to the roughest riding. Frames are made from thick tubes and are usually heavily reinforced for durability. Geometry is aimed purely at descending. Frames will have beefy suspension hardware and asually a 1.5 inch headtube.
FORK : While some big hit freeride bikes use dual crown forks, increasingly these bikes are equipped with ultra-long travel single crown forks. These forks pack a whopping 180mm travel and have huge stanchions for strength, often with a 1.5 inch headtube.
REAR SUSPENSION : Bottomless feeling rear suspension is the hallmarkof big hit freeride bike. Long stroke coil shocks deliver 180-220mm travel.
WHEELS : Strength is the key here. Big, wide rims laced with 36 spokes to bolt through hubs. Tyres of 2.5 – 2.7 inch widths with heavyweight sidewalls are the norm.
DRIVETRAIN : While some big hit freeride bikes will have a dual chainring system, most have a single chain ring and chainguide arrangement for security and peace of mind.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS BIG HIT FREERIDE BIKE
1.5 INCH HEADTUBE
The front end of a big hit freeride bike cops a massive beating, so it makes sense to put the beef where it is needed. By utilizing a 1.5 inch headtube tube, manufacturers can run super strong 1.5 steerer tube equipped forks, they have more weld area to create a stronger frame and can use a bigger bearing headset for better durability.
This new system from Truvativ is finding its way onto many big hit freeride bikes. The unique planetary-geared chainring system gives these big bike the ability to be pedalled more efficiently without adding all the complication and hinderances of a triple chainring system.
150MM REAR HUBS
To boost the rear end stiffness of these big hitting rigs, more manufacturers have begun to utulise 150mm rear hubs. Increasingly these bikes are also incorporating the new Rockshox Maxle system which offers remarkable stiffness but still alloes quick wheel removal.
Super long travel is no longer the domain of dual crown forks. Increasingly big hit freeride bikes are equipped with monster single crown forks, such as the Rockshox Totem or Marzocchi 66, which pack up to 180mm travel but help keep these bike nice and manueoverable.
FULL FACE HELMET
Offering the maximum protection, a full face helmet is a must. Wear them as much as you can, and replace them regularly if you have a tendancy of headbutting the dirt. You’ll never look dorky with the amount of styling in a helmet these days.
BODY ARMOUR JACKET
A one-piece jacket is very effective in keeping you safe and secure as the pads won’t move around or slide down like singular pads. The only way to get decent spine and shoulder protection in one breathable and flexible setup.
Wheel Tensions : Big drops, rough landings and hard riding can be brutal on your wheels. Ensuring that your spokes are kept at a high and even tension the whole way round your wheel is one great way to prolong your wheel. Before each ride, run a hand over your wheels to quickly check for any loose spokes-if you find one, tighten it up or take the wheel to your local shop to keep to your hoops in good good shape for longer.
Remember, everything that happens in the air off a jump is directly related to how youhave left the lip. Make sure you are nice and relaxed as you approach a jump and your pedaling and braking has been completed well beforehand. As your bike moves up the face of the jump ‘pump’ the transition by compressing the bike into the up ramp-make sure you compress both front and rear wheels evenly. Stay loose as the bike leaves the lip as tensing up is likely to make the bike squirm off the jump and shoot you off in all directions. Once in the air, moves your hips rearward to ensure level flight before landing both wheels together on the landing or down slope.------------------------------------------------------
# You want a tough bike that’ll tackle just about everthing # You’d like to do the occasional downhill run # You’re keen to try some endurance downhill races # You like long rides, but are’nt fussed about climbing speed # You want a bike that can handle the big hits.
The Ins And Outs Of A Freeride Lite Bike
FRAME : These bikes aim to blend superb downhill ability with descent climbing prowess, although the focus is definitely geared towards the descents. Geometry tends to be more upright for confidence in technical terrain. These frames often feature 1.5 headtubes to facilitate the use of beefy, longer travel forks.
REAR SUSPENSION : Dishing out anywhere from 150-180mm travel, these bikes are well equipped to handle the biggest hits. The focus is on control and highn speed stability rather than pedaling efficiency and so lockout levers are usually used to enhance these bikes’ uphill performance.
WHEELS : Freeride light bikes will normally feature bolt-axles at both front and rear hubs for maximum frame/fork stiffness. Rim widths are normally quite wide to give the tyre a bigger ‘footprint’.
FORK : 160mm travel, single crown forks are fairly standard, always equipped with a precise-steering 20mm axle. Forks will often have a 1.5 inch steerer tube, or the new Tapered Steerer system, to make the front end even tougher.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS FREERIDE LITE BIKE
BOLT-THROUGH REAR HUBS
Rear end stiffness on freeride lite bikes is boosted through the use of bolt-through rear hubs.Increasingly these bikes are incorporating the new Rockshock Maxle system which offers remarkable stiffness but still allows quick wheel removal.
LARGER CHASSIS AIR FORKS
With travel between 160-180mm, the new generation of freeride light forks pack downhill performance into a more-svelte format. Commonly these forks have leg diameters of around 36mm for superior stiffness, and often they will feature on-the-fly travel adjustability to help these solid bikes climbing performance.
PIGGY-BACK AIR SHOCKS
Piggy-back air shocks,with an external ‘piggy-back’ reservoir, have a higher oil volume than a regular air shock. This translates into more consistent and better damping performance on rough, fast downhills as the oil doesn’t heat up as much.
TAPERED STEERER TUBES
Getting the best of both worlds, the new generation of freeride light forks feature a tapered steerer tube. Starting at 1.5 inches in diameter at the crown of the fork and tapering to 1 1/8th at the stem, the new system offers the same stiffness of a 1.5 inch system but at a lighter weight.
DUAL RING CHAINGUIES
Chain retention on the downhills is a must. A dual ring quide lets you keep the lower gears for climbing and general trail riding, but provides a higher level of security when shifted into the big ring for the downhills.
A longer, three quarter sleeved jersey is a great idea for this style of riding. It offers a little more protection for your elbows and forearms but without the restriction and heat of a full sleeved jersey.
CARBON KNUCKLE GLOVES
Protect your knuckles from high speed tree punching impacts with a set of super tough gloves. Carbon fibre reinforced knuckles will save your hands.
Air Suspension : Prolonged descents can be tough on your suspension.As the suspension heats up on long descents the wear and tear kicks in. It’s very important to make sure you have your rear shock overhauled fairly regularly if you’re riding hard and doing a lot of descending. Simple overhauls involve removing the air can from the shock and lubricating(or replacing if necessary) all seals. It’s a simple operation that you should aim to do once every twelve months.
Landing Smoothly : Freeride light bikes are built to deal with some fairly tough riding, but they aren’t as tough as a full-blown or big hit freeride bike. Make sure you’re got your technique right whwn you’re landing big drop to minimize fatique on your frame and componentry. Ensure you land both wheels together at the same time, and use your arms and legs to absord the compression rather than relying on your suspension alone. If the landing of the drop is sloped, match the angle of your wheels up with the angle of the downslope and ensure your weight is centred over the middle of the bike.------------------------------------------------------
Buy If : You like to ride terrain both up and down.You want a bike that can ride all day.You are more interested in blasting descents than fast climbing.You like to push yourself to the edge occasionally and you’d like to try some back country riding.
Do not used : for big hit freeride, serious downhill riding,dirt jumping or slopestyle.
Weight Range : 12-15kg.
Fork : 140-160mm travel fork with a bolt through axle(15-20mm axle).
Rear Suspension : Travel is generally around 150mm and provided by a long stroke high volume air shock.
Wheel : Tubeless wheelsets are commonly specced and with tyres of 2.3-2.4 inches in width.
Bar Height : With such long travel forks on modern All Mountain Bikes the front ends of these bikes are becoming higher.Do not be afraid to experiment with using lower rise handle bar, removing headset spacers or using a zero-rise stem to achieve a lower handle bar height. Lower bar heights will improve your climbing position on the bike and transfer more weight to the front wheel for improved cornering performance.
Suspension Servicing : All Mountain bike often have sophisticated suspension forks that offer a lot of separate adjustments.In order to keep them operating at their best. It is important to follow recommended servicing schedules.Make sure you change the oil in your forks annually at the very minimum-changing the lubricant oil is an easy job that you can often do yourself.The oil that controls your forks damping also requires regular replacement.
Steep Descents : All Mountain Bikes can tackle some very steep terrain so it is important to learn the correct steep descending techniques.Gets your body in position:-
1. Drop your heels so you have a good platform to brake your feet against. 2. Lower your hips down and back behind your saddle. 3.Lower your chest down over your top tube and saddle to get your centre of gravity down. 4.Extend tour arms but do not lock them or you will have no ability to steer. 5.Modulate your braking and do not lock your brakes.
Slow Tech Riding : Negotiating technical terrain at slow speed is a skill to have for all mountain riding.Getting through tight,tricky terrain is all about maintaining enough momentum to keep that front wheel rolling over obstacles. Use your front back sparingly, avoiding using it at moments that could stall your momentum on the face of an obstacles.Learn to ratcket your pedal strokes, use little half and quarter pedal strokes to maintain momentum while avoiding tagging your pedal on the rocks or roots.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS –
New Axle Sizes
A bolt-up or through-axle fork and hub allows all mountain bikes to maintain steering precision when being pushed to their limit.There are now two common through-axle sizes – 20mm and 15mm – both of which create a markedly more precise ride than a regular quick release fork.
Longer Travel, Lightweight Forks
Single crown forks with between 140-150mm of travel are now the standard in the all mountain arena.The use of 32mm stanchions and welter-weight construction techniques keeps weight down.These forks regularly offer damping adjustments that will rival any downhill fork.
Larger Volume Shocks
Fitting a larger volume air can to the rear shock gives rear suspension performance that reacts more like a coil-spring shock on the descents.The larger air volume produces a more linear suspension action and the shock suffers les heat build up during intense use.
Possibly one of the greatest mountain bike inventions of the past five years, an adjustable seatpost allows you to drop or raise the saddle in an instant without stopping riding. Perfect for all mountain bikes, and increasingly common in this genre.
Extra Coverage Helmet
Opt for a helmet that provides a little more crash protection than a conventional cross country helmet. All mountain riding generally has a higher level of risk than casual trail riding si the extra protection is worth it.
Lightweight Knee Pads
A lightweight, flexible set of knee pads are a worthy investment. You’ll want the protection of knee pads once you start flying down the descents, but make sure they’re comfortable enough to pedal back up the hill in.
There are no bike shop out there on in the wilderness so you’d better be prepared.All mountain riding can take you far from civilization, so get a multitool that has all the tools to get you out of trouble.The more function the better.------------------------------------------------------
Buy if : You want to ride all day. Your favourite trails have a little bit of everything. You want a more comfortable ride than a hardtail can offer. You’d like to have a crack at endurance racing for fun. You enjoy technical riding but don’t want to go too crazy.
Don’t use for : Freeriding, Downhill, Dirt Jumping or Slopestyle.
Weight Range:11-14 Kg.
Fork: Anywhere between 120-140mm travel is standard.
Rear Suspension: 120-140mm travel.
Tyre Choice : Tyres are a very personal piece of equipment and the tyre that works for your trail and riding may be completely wrong for other people. If your trails are predominantly rock based or hardpacked dirt, look for a fast rolling tread with closely spaced tread blocks. If your ride in loose conditions a more open tread pattern will be able to digs into the trail surface more effectively.
Monitor Your Nutrition : It may sound like obvios old advice but it certainly rings true. Eat before you’re hungry and drink before you’re thirsty.On long trails rides you really need to take a good sized hydration pack to store your food and few litre of water.On-the-bike fuel such as energy gels and bars are’nt just for the racers,they can really lift your performance on a casual ride allowing you to ride for longer and with more focus.
Regular Checks : Trail riding may be a lot of fun, but it is a bad news for bikers.Long rides in all weather wears and breaks equipment but a fewer regular checks can help in detecting any problems before they become catastrophic.Aside from checking spoke tension you should also check your hubs for looseness,check your headset is properly adjusted and ensure that there is no play in your cranks or bottom bracket assembly.Looseness or excessive wear on any parts of a trail bikes can result in disaster as the wear and tear on equipment can be hard.
Technical Climbing : Trail bikes are built to be exceptional technical climbers, so make the most of the bikes ability by learning proper climbing technique. Select your gear and line early to avoid a panic situation.On a technical climbing you will need to get out of the saddle;try to hover with your butt just above the nose of the saddle.This position will allow you to keep nice and centred and maintain a proper balance between rear wheel traction and preventing your wheel lifting.
Chain Wear : Just like the oil in your car,your chain needs to be replaced periodically depending on your riding style and conditions of your ride.Your chain will last around 1000 km of riding.Take your bike to your local shop regularly to have your chain wear checked.If you continue riding on a worn chain you will prematurely wear out your cassette and chainrings.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS – TRIAL BIKES
Travel adjustable forks make trail bikes incredibly versatile.System such as Fox TALAS,Marzocchi’s ATA,Manitou’s Infinite Travel or Rockshox U-Turn and Two Step allow riders to lower the front end for steep technical climbs then re-extend them for descents or rough terrain.
Suspension systems which pedal like a hardtail (for pure efficiency),yet react to the smallest bumps are the key to getting the versatility out of your trail bike.Shocks such as the Fox RP23 gives riders total control over their bikes pedaling performance.
Big Bag Tyres
Large volume tyres with low-profile tread patterns and a light overall weight boost the performance of a trail bike in the rough.These new-school tyres don’t inhibit the rolling speed or climbing performance of a trail bike,yet give it the stability of a bike with much more travel.
Carry food and water for all day rides with a medium sized bag A 1.5 – 3 litre bladder will suffice, and try keep the contents lightweight. TIP : Keep bits and pieces like a pump, tool and spare derailler hanger in the bag so you’ll never be caught without.
For adjustments on the trail, and fixing broken chains and other minor mechanical.Don’t leave home without one.
Comfortable, modest and offering more protection from the trail than lycra knicks.There are now a myriad of great styles available with high quality chamois liners.------------------------------------------------------
Buy If : You are keen to do some cross country racing. You prefer smoother trails. You want to be first to the top of the climb. You want a light,fast bike for covering ground quickly and you valve efficiency over a forgiving ride. Don’t use : for rough riding. It is a wheels-on-the-ground kind of bikes . Weight Range : 10-13 Kg. Fork : Usually limited to around 100 mm travel and will generally be equipped with a lockout to help put the power down when flying up smooth climbs. Rear Suspension : 100-110 mm travel is the norm,always with an air-shock and an easily accessible lockout lever is a must. Tyres Sizes : 1.9-2.2 inches.
Cable Case : Smooth running gear cables are a must. Not only do smooth and free running cables shift more accurately but they also reduces the effort required when shifting meaning your hands become less fatiqued.Lubricate your cables periodically by dribbling a few drops of chain lube or a lightweight oil down the cables and into the cables housing.If you ride in wet a lot or if your cables feel stiff and gritty when shifting,it is worth having your cable housing and cables replaced. To ensure your shifting stays smoother for longer, ask for full length cable housing to be installed at your next bike service.
Steep Climbing : Steep climbing need to be approached with care and good technique.Selecting the right gear is absolutely vital;if you pick too low a gear you will have too much tonque and you are likely to spin your wheels and break traction;too high and you will bog down and run out of leg power.The key is to get the right gear selected early and concentrate on delivering the power smoothly-a choppy pedaling action leads to surges of power to the rear wheel and less traction.Spin nice,smooth circles the whole way round your pedal stroke to keep traction maximized.When possible try to stay seated;it is far easier to maintain a smooth pedaling action while seated rather than standing.
Cornering With Seat Up : The higher seat heights required for cross country riding are not conducive to fast cornering but with practise you can still rip around the corners nice and quickly.The key is to move your hips and upper body forward,away from the saddle.This body position ensures that your saddle can move around behind your butt freely allowing you to properly lean the bike over as needed for good cornering traction.Lower your chest towards the saddle to ensure there is plenty of weight on the front tyre for grip and adopt a slightly bow legged stance if needed to let the top tube move freely between your knees.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS – CROSS COUNTRY DUALLY
Lightweight is the key in this arena and carbon allows manufacturers to achieve frame weights that simply can’t be safely constructed out of alluminium alloy. Modern carbon frames are every bit as strong and stiff as their alloy counterparts.
A tubeless system allows for a reduction in rotating weight, meaning quicker acceleration and improved climbing performance. Plus going tubeless means a reduction in flats, ideal if you’re racing.
A new generation of far stiffer, yet still lightweight suspension forks have improved the handling of cross country bikes dramatically making them far more stable in the rough. Innovations such as carbon fibre bodied rear shocks have reduced the weight penalty of dual suspension.
Handlebar Mounted Lockouts
Don’t need the suspension? A flick of switch will lock it out to give you all the efficiency of a rigid bike. Improvements in the operation of handlebar mounted lockout levers for both forks and rear shocks have dramatically increased their usage.
Bib and brace knicks, or bib knicks for short, are the most comfortable cycling garment out there. The bib and brace arrangement doesn’t move around, meaning the charmois stays exactly where it’s needed.
Get some riding specific sunglasses. Look for good ventilation to prevent fogging, and interchangeable lenses for different light conditions. Clear or yellow lenses are ideal for low light conditions, while tinted lenses will tame the glare.
If you’re still ummming and aaahing over whether or not to make the jump to clipless pedals, stop! Clipless pedals and shoes are like turbo charging the bike; they give you more power and control. Invest in a good set today and don’t look back.--------------------------------------------------------------
Buy if : you want a simple easy-to-understand bike. You have a limited budget.Your favuorite trails are smooth. You want a superlight bike for cross country racing and you are new to mountain biking. Do not : use for riding really rough trails, freeriding, downhill riding, dirt jumping or slopestyle and just stay away from the extreme end of things. Weight Range : 9-14 Kg. Fork : Run around 100-120mm travel and are generally air-sprung for weight saving and adjustability reasons.Wheels And Tyre : A good set of wheel can make all the diffirence on hardtail. Lightweight wheels will aid climbing but too light and they won’t handle the rougher ride of a rigid rear end.Big bag tyres will take the sting out as will a tubeless system giving a more supple ride.
Worn Pads : Bike do wear out particularly if you’re riding a cheaper bike and you’re approaching the limit of its abilities.One of the most important elements to check for wear is your brakes pads.Periodically remove your wheel from the bike and carry out a quick visual inspection.If there is less than 1mm thickness of pad remaining on the pad braking plate then it is time for a replacement.Do not wait till you hear the horrible screech of metal on metal!.
Vision : It is no secret your bike goes where you look.If you look at what to avoid you will hit it.So make sure your eyes are locked onto the path you want to take.Things happen quickly on a mountain bike so ensure yours eyes are looking well ahead and scanning down the trail at all time.By the time you are on the top of an obstacles it is too late so spot early.Your vision is particularly vital in corners.Look ahead through the corner and keep forcing your vision towards the exit from the moment you enter the corners.This will ensure you curve a nice smooth line rather than having a series of jerking bites at each corner.
Stay Loose : A hardtail does not give you the same forgiveness as a cushy dual suspension bike, so you have got to let your body do the work.Make sure you get out of the saddle over rough terrain(even if you are tired)and stay loose! Your arms and legs should never be locked on your bike.Keep a slight bend in your elbows and knees at all times.You need to keep your knees,hips,elbows and shoulders nice and elastic to allow them soak up the impacts or you will be in for a pinball ride.
Noises : A noisy bike is trying to tell you that something is broken,worn out,loose or unlubricated.Do not ignore noises! Not only will they drive you crazy but you are exacerbating the problems by continuing riding.Creaking or clicking while pedaling are the most common sounds, and they are generally easy to fix.In most cases all that is needed is a removal,clean and regrease on your cranks and bottom bracket.
NEW TECHNOLOGY AND TRENDS – CROSS COUNTRY HARDTAIL
Technology Trickle Down
Entry level cross country hardtails continue to represent better value than ever before. As technology filters down from higher priced bikes, sub RM1000 hardtails have been the real winners. The technology of these bikes rivals that of bikes of twice the price from only a few years ago.
Superlight Carbon Frame
At the pointy end of the XC hardtail category, carbon fibre race bikes continue to push the envelope in terms of weight savings. Sub 1kg frames are no longer the realm of road bikes, as cross country racers look for that edge over the competition.
In the quest to achieve ideal ride characteristics manufacturers continue to develop new and unique tubing shapes. Hydroformed tubes are used to reduce weight and increase strength at critical frame junctions, while chain and seatstay shapes can be manipulated to deliver a more compliant ride.
Big Bagged Tyres
In order to take the sting-out of the trail and to deliver more grip, modern hardtails tend to be equipped with larger volume tyres. A big-bag, low weight tyre adds very little weight but can dramatically improve the ride quality of a hardtail.
Invest in some proper kit designed for trail riding. A good set of padded trail shorts will save your behind, and a jersey wicks sweat away from your body to keep you cool. Don’t ride in at-shirt, you’ll be a sweaty mess in no time.
When it comes to cross country helmets, the more vents the better. Well designed cross country helmet channels air flow over your head to cool you even more effectively than riding without a helmet.
Lock on Grips
The best thing since sliced bread. Lock on grips won’t slip or spin in the wet like regular grips, and they make removing your brake levers and shifters a snap.
Riding in the mud - Mount a fender off your seatpost. Lather up your mountain bike's chain with grease rather than oil as grease prevents mud buildup and lasts longer. Mount a "Crud Claw" over your cassette to scrap the mud out of your gears. Spray your bike with Pam or WD-40 to cut down on mud buildup. Lower your tire pressure about 4 pounds to around 36 front and 38 rear psi.
Stay on the trail - Especially in muddy conditions, stay on the trail. Ride through mud, not around it. Or, get off your bike and walk through the mud. The last thing you want to do is widen a muddy trail!
SERVICING AND REPAIRING TIPS